About The Public Aquariums

The first public aquarium was opened in London Zoo in May 1853; the Fish House, as it came to be known, was constructed much like a greenhouse. P.T. Barnum quickly followed in 1856 with the first American aquarium as part of his established Barnum's American Museum, which was located on Broadway in New York before it burned down. In 1859, the Aquarial Gardens were founded in Boston. A number of aquariums then opened in Europe, such as the Jardin d'Acclimatation in Paris and the Viennese Aquarium Salon (both founded 1860), the Marine Aquarium Temple as part of the Zoological Garden in Hamburg (1864), as well as aquariums in Berlin (1869) and Brighton (1872).

The old Berlin Aquarium opened in 1869. The building site was to be Unter den Linden (along a major avenue), in the centre of town, not at the Berlin Zoo. The aquarium's first director, Alfred Brehm, former director of the Hamburg Zoo from 1863 to 1866, served until 1874. With its emphasis on education, the public aquarium was designed like a grotto, part of it made of natural rock. The Geologische Grotte depicted "the strata of the earth's crust". The grotto also featured birds and pools for seals. The Aquarium Unter den Linden was a three-story building. Machinery and water tanks were on the ground floor, aquarium basins for the fish on the first floor. Because of Brehm's special interest in birds, a huge aviary, with cages for mammals placed around it, was located on the second floor. The facility closed in 1910.

How to Keep Fish in the Tank and Out Of the Stereo

First, decide where you want to put your fish tank. Water weights bout 8.3 pounds per gallon. A completely set-up 30 gallon aquarium, including gravel, decorations, and water, can weight up to 250 pounds. The larger the tank, the more weight you'll have to deal with

The weight factor makes it highly important that you give much thought to not only where you place the aquarium, but on what. Greco says most homes should be able to support the weight of aquariums up to 75 gallons without additional support. "In any event, it is always best to place a tank along a wall, where floor supports are usually greater, rather than in the middle of a room," he says. You also want to avoid putting the tank too close to a window or heat source. Placing a tank too close to a sunny window may encourage the growth of undesirable algae and throw off the temperature of the whole tank. The same goes for too-close heating systems. You don't want to put the tank too close to that old-fashioned radiator in your pre-war apartment, for example. "Placing your tank too close to a heat source may cause the tank temperature to fluctuate wildly or to overheat, with dire results to the inhabitants at worst," he says.

Filters heaters and lights all require electricity, which means your tank has to be near an outlet. "It is of the utmost importance that electrical service is located close enough to the tank so the extension cords are not used," Greco says. "If you must use an extension cord, make sure it is ground fault protected. It is also important to provide a drip loop so that on the outside chance of water dripping down a wire, it will fall to the floor rather than into the electrical outlet."

Once you've got a spot, start thinking about a tank stand. Greco suggests going for quality and durability when choosing this piece, which he calls "the workhorse of the aquarium hobby." Don't skimp on this important foundation, and stay away from particleboard and TV-type stands. "These types of stands expand and weaken when they get wet," Greco says, "and then the fish tank is in the stereo."

Water Conditions

"Don't go cheap on the filter," Greco advises. Out are the old "box type" filters; in are the new self-contained units. "The newest filters use cartridges that you can throw away when they get dirty, making them much easier to maintain." Some of the newest tanks, like the Eclipse line from Marine Land, have both the filter and the heater built right into the hood of the tank, making them especially well-suited for the junior hobbyist. Greco also advises staying away from 'under-gravel' filters, which he says require lots of maintenance and tend to mess up water quality in the tank.

Invest in a good, submersible well-sealed heater. "The old rule of thumb of 5 watts per gallon may hold in a room where the average temperature never falls below 70 degrees Fahrenheit," Greco says. "In an area where the ambient temperature may drop, seven watts per gallon or greater may be what is needed to maintain a steady temperature." Also, it's a good idea to put your tank's thermostat on the opposite side of where the heater is to make sure you're getting an accurate tank temperature reading.

The type of lighting you will need depends on whether or not you will be adding live plants to the tank. If you're sticking with plastic plants, a simple single bulb fluorescent strip light should do. Live plants require a double fluorescent fixture. For even better plant growth, Greco suggests "very high output" (VHO) or power compact fluorescent lighting.

Let There Be Life!

You've got the fundamentals in place. Now the real fun can begin!

Decorating a fish tank is like decorating your own world, but you have to see it from a fish-eye view. First, start with the gravel. Greco likes to stick with natural stone colors, but there are countless varieties out there. Glass and marble, however, are not the best gravel choices. "Bottom dwellers can get their whiskers torn up on glass gravel," Greco says, "and marbles can trap dirt and make the water quality go quickly downhill." Whatever gravel you choose, rinse it off well and pour it in dry to the bottom of a clean, dry tank until it fills up about 2-3 inches deep. Generally, you should use 1 to 1 1/2 pounds of gravel per five gallons of tank.

Once the gravel is in place, add any rocks, driftwood or other decorations. Try to place these materials so that they not only create a scene pleasing to the eye, but that also provides hiding places for the fish. Make sure that whatever materials you use are aquarium safe. That nice looking rock you picked up on vacation, or the oddly shaped piece of driftwood you picked up along the beach may look nice but may also be hazardous to your fish. Whatever decorations you use make sure they are placed securely. There's nothing worse that setting up a tank, only to have the aquascape collapse due to improper placement.

Next, decide on how you're going to get water into the tank, and remember that this is the way you're going to have to do it from now on. "There is nothing messier than having to drag buckets of water from the tank to the sink and back again, and the closer to the sink, the better," Greco says. However, as most apartment dwellers know, this isn't always possible. "There are devices that will allow the placement of a tank within 100 feet of a sink. These devices, called gravel-cleaning siphons, allow you not only to gravel clean the tank while performing water changes, but also lets you refill the tank afterwards." The one he strongly recommends for New York City apartment dwellers who have to be creative with space is the Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System. "This is one tool that should be found in every hobbyist's toolbox," the professional aquarist says.

Fill the aquarium approximately half way with conditioned tap water. This water should be of the proper temperature range, and dechlorinated either by the use of a slimy water conditioner or by allowing the water to sit, aerated, overnight.

Once the tank is party filled, you can add any plants, live or artificial. Plants should be placed so as to compliment other decorations, and to add a finishing touch to the aquascape. Once the plants are in place, CAREFULLY add the remainder of the water so as not to uproot the plants. If using live plants note that many species of barbs eat aquatic vegetation. It would be wise to ensure that the species you re considering do not fall into that category. Live plants to stay away from include Purple Crinkle, Dragon's Tongue and Underwater Pine, sometimes called Wood Fern.

At this point, you will want to install your outside power filter or canister filter, as well as a thermometer. Once the filters are in place, put the cover on the tank. There are two styles to choose from: a glass cover or a full hood. A glass cover is just that; two pieces of glass joined together by a hinge that covers the whole tank. You will need to add your own lighting if you go this route which is beneficial if you are using live plants since you can add more than one light strip. A full hood, on the other hand, is a one-piece plastic molded top. They usually come with a single bulb light fixture, although double bulb fixtures are available. No matter which manner of cover you chose, each would have a translucent plastic backstrip. This allows you to carefully cut portions out to allow for the passage of the filter and any wires or tubes running into the tank. Remember that some fish are jumpers, so do not make the cutouts any larger than they need to be.

Once everything is in place, plug in your heaters, filter and light. Allow the system to run for 24 hours, after which you will want to check the temperature to ensure the heater is working properly. If everything is in working order, you can then consider adding a few fish. Your newly setup tank may be cloudy for the first few days, or even a week. This is normal, and is nothing to be concerned with. This cloudiness will clear up on its own as the filter begins to do its job.

Finally, The Fish

At this point, there is always the temptation to add too many fish to a newly set up system. (Greco calls this the "just-one-more-fish" syndrome.) Fish should be added gradually, generally no more than one or two small to medium sized fish per 10 gallons. This will allow the tank to become biologically established without too much of an ammonia/nitrite spike that can be stressful or fatal to the fish. Once fish have been added, monitor water quality periodically, taking whatever corrective action is needed. Do not add any additional fish until the biological cycle has finished, generally three to four weeks.

Tank Tips:

Decorations

Some driftwood may, at first, float. To get round this, you might try soaking it in a clean container of water until it is waterlogged or attach it to a rock base. If using a submersible heater, you should place it in the tank now. You will want to hide it from view while at the same time allowing for viewing of the on/off light. DO NOT bury the heater under the gravel as this may cause the glass tube to crack.

Plastic plants are easier to maintain than live plants, and you can't just put any old plant in the tank. "If it looks like a houseplant, it probably is," Greco says. Stay with the safe, specially made artificial plants if you can. A good rule of thumb: don't put it in if you don't know what it's made of.

When decorating the tank, give the fish some places they can hide.

Fish

Once the tank is filled up with water, but before putting any fish in, add one teaspoon of aquarium salt or kosher salt per gallon of water to help fish resist disease.

Good "starting fish" choices are Swordtails, Platys, Zebra Danios, Dwarf Barbs and Small Tetras. Goldfish and tropical fish shouldn't be mixed together. Catfish or other algae eaters (that big "sucker" fish you see stuck onto the inside of the tank in many pet stores is an algae-eater called Plecostomus) should be saved for later on one the life of the tank is established.

When choosing a fish, look for alert swimmers with good color. Signs of possible sickness include scratching along the bottom, white spots or shaking in a corner of the tank. There should be no sick or dead fish in the tank.

Most of the time you will bring the fish home in a plastic bag with some of the water from the tank you bought it from. Once you're home, open the top of the bag, fold it over like a cuff, and let it float on top of the tank for five or ten minutes. Use a net to put the fish in the tank and throw the bag water away. (If you've bought the fish from outside of the immediate area, it's okay to add a little bit of it's native water to the tank but dump the rest.)

Feed your fish two or three times a day only as much as they can eat in one minute. Flaked food is your best bet, with occasional treats.

Remember that old joke about whether fish sleep? Like you, they are on a regular 24-hour day schedule. Rather than keep them in the dark all day and then turn on their tank light when you get home, try to set a timer for it to go on a few hours before you get home and to turn off around the time you go to bed.

Once a month, take about 25 percent of the tank water out and replace it with fresh water.

These tips should keep your tank healthy and your Aqualand residents happy.

Things You Consider Before You Buy Your Aquarium

All different shapes, sizes and colors. Spikes, tails, pop eyes, you name it, fish have it. Fish are cool. But how do you look after them? All those water chemicals, live food, and business about putting two fish in the same tank sounds pretty scary. But don't sweat it... just read this guide! It contains all the info you need on taking care of those first fins. This guide takes you through buying fish, putting them in your tank, and looking after them.

1.Decide whether you want Tropical or Coldwater fish. Coldwater fish include goldfish and minnows. There are zillions of tropical fish, from angel fish to corydoras catfish. Coldwater fish are usually a little more hardy, and will survive those first few mistakes.

-->Start off with inexpensive fish, even if you can afford expensive ones. Inexpensive ones are inexpensive because they are very successful in their natural environments or so comfortable in captivity that they even breed regularly and, in either case, do not die easily on their way to and in pet stores. Do get something active and pretty though.

-->Do not start out with saltwater fish. They require techniques and understanding that are much more complex. Plus, the water you'll have to work with and that may leak is messy, slowly corrosive to metal, and conductive. If you think you want a saltwater tank, get a medium sized tropical fish tank with some plants and see if you can keep that in perfect order first for a year or so.

2.Decide what kind and how many fish you want.
-->Research before putting species together. Some fish are compatible, others aren't. One might speculate that fish would enjoy some activity in their lives, so don't get just one. (The fish need not be the same species; for some territorial fish, it is best that it isn't. An armored catfish can be a good "companion" for such a beast.)

-->Make sure you can provide any specialized care the fish need. For example, different fish need different foods, and some fish require more frequent maintenance than others. Owning fish is a big responsibility.

-->Some fish are perfectly happy with flakes and can be fed with an automatic feeder, which makes it possible to leave the tank unattended for a week or two (assumingali the fish are small so the water doesn't need very frequent changing).

3.Get an appropriately sized tank. Look up the minimum tank size for each fish.

-->For goldfish, buy a tank with 20 gallons for the first goldfish, and 10 gallons for each additional goldfish.

-->For smaller freshwater fish, get one gallon per inch of adult fish.

-->The larger freshwater fish require more room. The volume of a fish, and thus, roughly, the amount of food it turns into waste, increases not with its length but with the cube of its length. Therefore, you could keep two or three Neon Tetras, which grow to only an inch or so, per gallon of water, but three or four big six-inch cichlids would be more than enough for a fifty-gallon tank (assuming they aren't very territorial, in which case they might think only one or two is enough!)

-->Active swimmers such as wild-type goldfish and and tetras should have a tank many times their body length. In a small tank, slow swimmers such as fancy double-tailed goldfish and Siamese fighting fish will still be happy.

4.Make sure you have all the proper equipment- filters, heaters (for tropical fish), water conditioner, test kit, etc

5.Set up the tank and cycle it.

6.Put your fish in. Only add a few fish to start with, and slowly build up the population. Adding too many fish at once can overload your filtration system.

7.Perform partial water changes weekly. 20-30% is a good amount. To do a water change, get a gravel vacuum and siphon out any waste in the substrate. This will pull out water at the same time. Replace the water with water from your tap, but remember to treat it with a water conditioner.

8.Test the water regularly. Make sure you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and under 40 nitrate.

9.Feed your fish two or three times a day.

10.Monitor your fish. While they eat, sit and actually observe them. Check for anything strange: changing color, falling off fins, damaged tails, etc. Also, make sure all of your fish are getting along.

11.Try not to stress out your fish. This includes putting your hand in the tank when you don't need to, touching them, or jumping near the tank

How to Take Care of a Betta Fish?

Betta splendens, also known as "Bettas" and "Siamese fighting fish", are popular pets recognized for their aggressiveness, interactiveness, and relatively low cost for maintenance and care. Betta fish can prove to be your best friend for up to four years. Follow these tips to make sure your new pal has a great, happy and healthy life.

1.Know your betta fish. There are various important characteristics and needs of these fish that every owner needs to be aware of. Having a general understanding of what to look for before buying will mean that you make choices that help to ensure the longevity of your pets. When purchasing your Betta fish, think about these main things:

-->Color. Is the Betta's color bright and vivid, or is it very dull and pale? Bettas come in a variety of colors, but blues and reds (dark colors in general) are most common.

-->Receptiveness. Does the betta respond to your movement at all? Does it swim around rapidly when seeing you, or does it merely sit at the bottom and sulk? Don't repeatedly tap the container, as doing so agitates the fish. Instead, try moving your finger back and forth in front of the Betta. Don't be afraid to buy a somewhat docile Betta though; they generally have many encounters with other people during their day, and may simply be resting. The average Betta bought in a pet store has been bred to withstand a lot of the hassles of a pet's lifestyle.

-->Overall health. Are its fins in good condition, or are they torn or otherwise damaged? Are the Betta's eyes in good shape? Do you see any odd lumps (parasites) on its body? If you see anything highly out of the ordinary, consider another Betta.

-->The right one. Sometimes, the fish will choose you, not the other way around. If there is one Betta that you look at, set down, move on from it, but are drawn back to it repeatedly, consider buying it. Even if it is not completely healthy, buy the fish you feel connected to, rather than the healthiest one there. He will likely heal up once out of the tiny cup and gets a fresh start in warm, clean water.

2.Do some initial background research. There is a lot to know about betta fish, even beyond the basics just outlined. In general, large box stores aren't in the business of providing detailed information, unless you happen to strike a betta enthusiast salesperson. As well as having the basic understanding of betta outlined above, you might consider researching more details about betta fish online at sites like bettafish.com,bettatalk.com, ibcbettas.org, etc. These sites will remain useful for you after purchase too, as you'll be able to ask questions, check up health and nutrition notes and find like-minded betta fans to share stories with.

House For a Betta Fish

1.Prepare your Betta's home. Have a proper set up ready before bringing home your new pet. This prevents possible mishaps. 

-->Don't place Betta fish in with other fish without doing your research on compatibility first. In general, assume that the Betta fish will be aggressive toward other fish and may well try to kill them (some exceptions are provided below when discussing suitable tank-mates).

2.Choose a suitable home. In the wild, Bettas inhabit Thai rice paddies. Hence, they are suited to living in relatively shallow but spacious environments. To meet the spacious need, consider giving your Betta a decently sized tank to help prolong its life. Pick a tank of 5 gallons or more for your Betta to thrive. It may seem a lot, but it's what your fish deserves.

3.Add the necessary equipment. Various equipment is required for the successful keeping of Betta fish:

-->Purchase a heater with a thermostat––Betta fish like water temperatures between 76-82ºF/24-27ºC. Bettas may require a heater in some cases––for example, if you live in a cold country or if you have an aquarium below room temperature, then a heater is required. Mini-heaters are available for Betta tanks between 1-3 gallons. During the winter, you may want to add a mini heater or place your aquarium close to a radiator (1 meter away), to prevent your Betta from becoming too cold.

-->Filters are always necessary but make sure the current is not too strong for your Betta. Bear in mind that the long-finned varieties do best with as little current as possible. Some experts recommend the use of sponge filters, to protect the fins.

-->Avoid jagged rocks or decorations. Such decorations can easily tear Betta fins. It's recommended that you check once a day that there are no tears in the Betta's fins. If there are tears, first check the water quality, as tears are typically caused by poor water maintenance.

-->Avoid adding any hard plastic plants. Again, these can be rough on the fins. Use the 'pantyhose test': If a plastic plant will snag a pair of pantyhose when rubbed against it, then it will damage your Betta's fins. Be safe and buy silk plants instead.

-->Live plants are a great idea. They're prettier than fake ones, and Betta fish love lounging on the leaves and hiding in them to sleep. Live plants also help to oxygenate the water and keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time.

4.If you're considering adding tank-mates, do your research. Betta fish tend to prefer being alone and may kill other fish and even snails if added to the tank. Some people believe that Betta fish are good with tank-mates such as snails, ghost or cherry shrimp and neon tetras, and consider that as long as the fish sharing the tank is not bigger, more colorful or fin nipping, it should be okay. That said, some of the more aggressive Betta fish simply prefer to be alone and will attack even a snail. Before adding any sort of tank-mate, do thorough research by asking questions of the retailer, reading in books about Betta fish or checking online sites dedicated to Betta fish (ask other Betta owners in the forums). If in doubt, leave the tank-mate out.

-->Male Betta fish cannot live with other male Betta fish. They are named Siamese fighting fish for a reason! In an aquarium setting, they will fight to the death in order to protect their living space, regardless of the size of the tank. If your tank does not have a partition, do not risk losing one or both of your Betta fish by allowing them to live together.

-->Keep female Betta fish either singly or in groups of at least five, to lessen any aggression. The tank must be at least 10 gallons and have several hiding spots if keeping multiple females. All females must be added at the same time. Don't place only two female Betta fish in your tank. They establish a "pecking order" and having only two female fish means that the less dominant one gets picked on exclusively.

-->Female Betta fish will fight males and vice versa. Don't put them in together. Read up on breeding them if you think you want to try it, but remember that breeding bettas is a huge commitment, and not something to be taken lightly.

-->Putting a mirror up to the side of the tank can cause a Betta to flare because he/she thinks that there is a rival in his/her territory. This can stress out the fish, so avoid mirrors.

 Add Water to Tank

1.Prepare the water. Use a water conditioner such as Prime before putting fresh tap water in the tank. The chlorine and chloramines in standard tap water can harm Bettas, as well as kill off all that beneficial bacteria housed in the filter. Older sources may suggest aging the water (standing it for a time) but it's best to use a water conditioner, as aged water removes chlorine but not chloramine and heavy metals.

-->It is a not a good idea to use bottled water because this deprives your Betta of necessary minerals and is not fish 'safe'. Treated tap water is both a cheaper and better alternative.

2.Fill the Betta's tank. If the tank is without a top cover, fill it about 80% high to ensure your fish won't leap out. Bettas are very active and can jump over 3 inches/7.5cm when motivated! However, Bettas usually won't be trying to escape if they're happy in their home.

Adding Your Betta to the New Home:

1.Add your Betta. Slowly and carefully tip the container in which you received your Betta into the new habitat, allowing the new water and old water to mix. This will make the water easier for your fish to adjust to––if the habitat water is much colder or warmer than the previous water, mixing waters will help allay any shock for the fish. Be gentle as you tip in the Betta!

-->Avoid netting a Betta when possible, as this can damage the delicate fins. If you need to pick up a Betta, try to use a small cup to scoop him/her up with care.

Feeding the Betta

1.Feed your Betta. Your Betta's diet should consist primarily of pellets specifically made for feeding Betta. For special occasions, feed frozen brine shrimp or blood worms.

-->Check the ingredients of the pellets. The first three should be protein based. Experts say that protein in the pellets should be no less than 40%. Tropical fish flakes, goldfish flakes, and the like, are not suitable for Betta fish.

-->Though live food may be exciting to watch, frozen and dried products are generally best. They are safer and free from potential parasites. Frozen or dried blood worms make for a great treat.

2.Feed your Betta regularly. Betta fish vary in eating habits from each other, so experiment to see how much food your Betta eats. Set up routine feeding times, for example, once in the morning and once at night. If you stick to this routine, you may even find that your Betta will be waiting for you when it's time to eat!

-->Take care not to overfeed the fish. Overfeeding can be a problem in some Betta fish, as they will eat as long as you feed them (which can be fatal). On the other hand, other Betta fish will stop eating when they're full. Overfeeding can cause bloating, though this is not as serious as a similar condition referred to as dropsy. It can, however, cause bladder problems later on, which can also be fatal.

3.Clean up any extra food that your Betta does not eat. Similarly, watch your Betta to see if he/she spits up any food. This could be a sign that your Betta is a picky eater, or it could also mean that the pellets are too big for the Betta's mouth. Ironically, most big fish food companies don't realize that Betta fish have smaller mouths than, say, goldfish or others.

-->You can cut the pellets in half with a small razor blade or such to allow it to fit in the Betta's mouth easier. If it still refuses to eat, try another brand of pellets or dried food.

4.Turn feeding time into a little enrichment exercise. Put a straw in the tank and watch your Betta to see if he/she gets used to it. If he/she does, and you have leftover Betta food he/she won't eat, place one of the leftover pellets in the tank. Place the straw over it so that it is inside the straw. Hold the straw over the fish and wait for him/her to find it. After your Betta finds it, he/she will follow it. You can then slowly lift the straw up to the top of the tank until the food pops out and your Betta will eat it.

Keeping the Betta Tank Clean

Betta fish are only hardy to different water types, such as hard and soft water. This means that you should not change the water or rearrange the aquarium too frequently.

1.Clean your Betta's tank. Place your Betta in container filled with old water while washing the tank. Simply wash the tank with hot water, as some soaps will harm your Betta. If your habitat has rocks, rinse them thoroughly. Fill the habitat half way with fresh tap water, return the Betta and some of the old water, and then fill the rest with tap water again.

-->Be sure to add a de-chlorinator (also known as a water conditioner) to the water; this will remove any harmful chlorine/chloramine that is in tap water that may kill your fish. It will also filter bacteria.

-->Be sure that the water you are changing is the same temperature as the old water the Betta was in, to avoid temperature shock; such shock can be deadly to your Betta. Use an in-tank thermometer to check the water temperatures.

2.Test the water weekly. In order to test water parameters each week, you will need a master fresh water test kit. This will allow you to monitor your aquarium and take readings. Follow the instructions for testing provided by the manufacturer.

-->Place notes in your calendar or diary to remind yourself that it's time to test the water.

Ongoing Enjoyment

1,Have fun with your new friend. Betta fish come to recognize their owners. They will actually learn faces and even simple games. Keep your betta company and say "hi" once in a while, so he learns who you are!

-->Betta fish are very curious and often develop a strong bond with their caretaker.

2.Play with your Betta fish. Betta fish are enjoyable to watch and spend time with. You can play with your fish by moving your finger back and forth along the tank edge (never bang the tank or poke the water). Watch your Betta follow you. And above all, don't forget toname your fish!

-->Never tap the glass of the tank. This action easily agitates the fish and can cause the fish to go into shock and die. To interact through movement, simply slowly rest your finger on the glass and slide it along to see if your Betta will follow it. If he/she backs away and seems frightened, then stop immediately. You can eventually try again once you the Betta is more accustomed and less afraid of you.

Fun Facts About Betta Fish

A few things that it's nice to know about Betta fish:

-->Betta fish are members of the Anabantoid family (gouramis are also in this family). They have a back-up breathing system that allows them to breathe surface air, however, they still require a filtration system in their tanks.

-->Female Betta fish are typically smaller than make Betta fish. They lack the beautiful finnage that males possess. However, they can still be equally as beautiful in their own way—–and feisty! Don't keep them together though, as the female may latch onto the male's vivid fins, causing them to tear.

-->Male Betta fish build bubble nests when happy!

-->If a male likes a female, he flares his gills, twists his body, and spreads his fins. If a female likes a male, she wriggles back and front.

Fish Aquariums – Tips, How to Buy Aquariums Cheaply

Many fish fans these days are thinking of a nice home for their fishes, with a large aquarium with range of spirited fish, but doing it can cost you thousands of money on your account. Maybe you are now disappointed about the concept of having your own fish aquarium, but there are inexpensive aquarium that can turn your desire into real estate. Although some other equipment for aquariums is expensive, you can buy inexpensive aquariums to decrease the problem. If you want to still engage in your greatest desire, read these following tips on how you will discover inexpensive aquarium for your desire water haven:

• You can look around for sales. A lot of pet stores these days have their annually purchase on aquariums. Most especially the set ups, they do once or twice a season to remove old stock aquarium. You can take the advantage of this purchase to have your desire aquarium. This purchase usually happens during the end of the season or in the middle of the season.

• Look for different pet stores regionally or in the internet. This concept is even better than searching down some purchase. You can discover a shop that has a lot of empty aquarium that is constricting up the area in their shop. Look for the shop administrator and ask them if they want to purchase one of these aquariums for a very affordable cost. A lot of professionals of pet stores may pick up your offer because it is the most practical way on how they can remove mess in their shop.

• Check out some homes that have a moving purchase. Individuals tend to shift locations from locations these days and the least that they would want to carry is aquarium. Especially if this folks are in a rush they might likely to offer aquarium in a very inexpensive cost. They will be grateful selling aquarium to individuals like you. You can look in your community for others who live nearby who will shift and have aquarium in their home to left behind.

• Another very useful way to discover used aquarium in the categorized ads and online stores. There are a lot of new pet groups in the categorized ads most often features used aquarium. These individuals are grateful to offer aquarium to you to get rid of them.

• Talk to people such as friends and other family members. If you make some discussion to multiple people, you might discover several those who have used aquarium in their home that are taking too much area in their home. These individuals surely want to offer aquarium to remove the mess inside their home. Some of them would to modernize their homes and would not want aquarium to be part of their remodeling.

If you are really determine to discover inexpensive aquarium you can definitely discover one. Nothing is difficult in this world these days. You can always discover what you are looking for if you will look for options.

For more information:

Aquarium Illusions Inc.

http://www.aquariumillusions.com/

Phone:  780 483-7027

Fax:    780 483-7081

Toll Free:   1-800-559-6546 (In Canada)

Freezing Climate Seafood Care

Power breakdowns any season present a risk for your fish. If you live where it gets cold, a energy failing can confirm deadly for your container fish. Here are ways to get ready for, and deal with the worst-case situation - a energy failing in the deceased of winter.

Maintenance In Freezing Weather

A package in ideal shape will work out much better during a energy disruption. Keep the package well cleaned, clean the narrow press regularly, and execute frequent water changes. If you use an air push, create sure it is fixed with a examine device so it won't siphon water during a energy disruption. Keep a temperature gauge on or in the package so you can observe the warm range during a energy failing.

Prepare an urgent situation kit and keep it near the container so you don't have to search for it in the darkish. If you are going to be away from the house for an extended time period, arrange for a next door neighbor to tend your fish during a energy disruption.

The Emergency Kit

First and major be prepared to move around in the house. You can't do much for your fish if you are groping around in the darkish. Have a torch close by with new battery in it. In addition to your torch, get ready a simple urgent situation kit for your container. There are only a few items you need, but they could create all the difference in the world for your fish. Here is what you'll need:

Flashlight with clean batteries

Pencil and paper

Blankets or wide towels

Rope or durable tape

Small plastic-type material package with lid or zip secure bag

Battery managed aerator and batteries

1 to 2 cup plastic-type material package with a add spout

Hand warmers

Fish net

(A copy of this article would be helpful too)

During a Power Failure

If the energy goes out, your container will lose three important elements: warm, air (from lack of water movement), and filtering system. At first the package is not in immediate danger. However, if the energy is not returning in twenty to 30 minutes, believe the toughest and take steps accordingly.

Maintain Heat

Jot down the initial warm range, so you have a measuring stick to go by. Fill the plastic-type material package or zip secure bag with hot tap water, then close off it and position it in the container. Even though your hot water heaters no more have energy, the water will still be warm enough at this point to be of benefit.

To maintain as much of the warm as possible, place the package with wide shower or heavy bedding. Use line or durable record to secure them as carefully as you can against all sides of the package. Lay at least one cover over the top of the package.

Aerate Water

Place a battery-operated aerator in the package to keep the water moving while the narrow is off. You can purchase aerators at a pet store or even a lure store. If you have more than one package, move the aerator for ten moments at the same period in each package. If you do not have an aerator, and the energy is out for more than a time, you'll have to side aerate the water. Use the little plastic-type material package to eliminate a cup or two of water, then hold it well above the level and add it returning in (the concept is to aggravate the surface of the water when doing this). Do it again this process for five moments out of every time.

Now all you can do is delay for the energy to come returning on. Do not nourish the fish during the disruption. It will cause them to produce more waste, which cannot be removed easily without the narrow operating. If the energy is out more than two times, eliminate the narrow press from the narrow device. Otherwise it will contaminate the package with deceased harmful bacteria when the energy comes returning on.

Monitor the warm range, and continue aerating the package. In the event a fish passes away instantly, eliminate the body instantly so it does not impact the chemistry of the package. As the warm range constantly fall, eliminate the package positioning hot water and renew it with hot tap water. The water in your protected hot water heaters will stay hot for many times. If your tap water is no more hot, close off a hand-warming device in the package and position it in the package.

When the Power Comes Back

Check the warm range of the septic tanks. Modify the heaters so the warm range gradually goes up at the rate of a half a degree every several time (the concept is to gradually adjust the fish to the return to regular temperature). If the narrow has not been operating for more than two times, substitute the narrow press with clean press. Do not nourish the fish instantly. Choose the warm range has come back to regular. After 24-48 hours, analyze the water for ammonia and execute a water change if any ammonia is recognized. A week later, analyze the water again to be sure that everything is regular again.

For more information:

Aquarium Illusions Inc.

http://www.aquariumillusions.com/

Phone:  780 483-7027

Fax:    780 483-7081

Toll Free:   1-800-559-6546 (In Canada)