The Art of Fish Keeping

Fishkeeping is a popular hobby concerned with keeping fish in a home aquarium or garden pond. There is also a fish keeping industry, as a branch of agriculture.

Types Of Fish Keeping System:

Fishkeepers are often known as "aquarists", since many of them are not solely interested in keeping fish. The hobby can be broadly divided into three specific disciplines according to the type of water the fish tolerate: freshwater, brackish, and marine (also called saltwater) fish keeping.

Freshwater

Freshwater fish-keeping is by far the most popular branch of the hobby, with even small pet stores often selling a variety of freshwater fish, such as goldfish, guppies, and angelfish. While most freshwater aquaria are community tanks containing a variety of compatible species, single-species breeding aquaria are also popular. Livebearing fish such as mollies and guppies are among those most easily raised in captivity, but aquarists also regularly breed many types of cichlid, catfish, characin, and killifish.

Many shopkeepers create freshwater aquascapes where the focus is on aquatic plants as well as fish. These aquaria include "Dutch Aquaria", named for European aquarists who designed them. In recent years, one of the most active advocates of the heavily planted aquarium is the Japanese aquarist Takashi Amano.

 

About The Public Aquariums

The first public aquarium was opened in London Zoo in May 1853; the Fish House, as it came to be known, was constructed much like a greenhouse. P.T. Barnum quickly followed in 1856 with the first American aquarium as part of his established Barnum's American Museum, which was located on Broadway in New York before it burned down. In 1859, the Aquarial Gardens were founded in Boston. A number of aquariums then opened in Europe, such as the Jardin d'Acclimatation in Paris and the Viennese Aquarium Salon (both founded 1860), the Marine Aquarium Temple as part of the Zoological Garden in Hamburg (1864), as well as aquariums in Berlin (1869) and Brighton (1872).

The old Berlin Aquarium opened in 1869. The building site was to be Unter den Linden (along a major avenue), in the centre of town, not at the Berlin Zoo. The aquarium's first director, Alfred Brehm, former director of the Hamburg Zoo from 1863 to 1866, served until 1874. With its emphasis on education, the public aquarium was designed like a grotto, part of it made of natural rock. The Geologische Grotte depicted "the strata of the earth's crust". The grotto also featured birds and pools for seals. The Aquarium Unter den Linden was a three-story building. Machinery and water tanks were on the ground floor, aquarium basins for the fish on the first floor. Because of Brehm's special interest in birds, a huge aviary, with cages for mammals placed around it, was located on the second floor. The facility closed in 1910.

The Oscar Fish

Can Oscar Fish Hear?

A very common question we often get asked is "can fish hear?".  The answer to this question is Yes fish can hear, but not in the same way we hear sounds.  Think about it, have you ever seen a fish with ears?  Of course not, a fishes hearing isn't the same as human hearing. You can shout as loud as you like, play music at full volume, a fish will not hear anything, don't believe me?  Try the experiment yourself.

So why is this then?  Fish don't have external ears like mammals, however they have got specialized hearing parts inside their head.  They also have an organ called the lateral line which they use to detect the tiniest vibrations in the water.   So if you were to play a radio very loudly outside the tank, the Oscar would not hear it.  

On the other hand, a lot of bass as we know creates a lot of vibrations, these vibrations could be transferred through the aquarium into the water. I've never experimented myself, but I strongly suspect very heavy vibration caused by a lot of bass could well upset your fish.

New Arrival Acclimation Guide - Aquarium Care

The purpose of acclimation is simple: 
The water that the fish or corals are packaged in has different temperature, pH, and salinity parameters than your aquarium. Fish, and especially invertebrates (including corals), are very sensitive to even minor changes in these parameters, so proper acclimation is the key to ensuring their successful relocation.

We recommend either of the two acclimation methods explained below, and wish to remind you the acclimation process should never be rushed. Also, remember to keep your aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the specimens are introduced into the aquarium to help them further adjust.

Though not a requirement of our acclimation procedures, we highly recommend that all aquatic life be quarantined in a separate aquarium for a period of two weeks to reduce the possibility of introducing diseases and parasites into your aquarium and to ensure they are accepting food, eating properly, and are in optimum health before their final transition to your main display.

 

Floating Method

1. Turn off aquarium lights.
2. Dim the lights in the room where the shipping box will be opened. Never open the box in bright light - severe stress or trauma may result from sudden exposure to bright light.
3. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes (Fig. A). Never open the shipping bag at this time. This step allows the water in the shipping bag to adjust slowly to the temperature in the aquarium, while maintaining a high level of dissolved oxygen.
4. After floating the sealed shipping bag for 15 minutes, cut open the bag just under the metal clip (Fig. B) and roll the top edge of the bag down one inch to create an air pocket within the lip of the bag. This will enable the bag to float on the surface of the water (Fig. C). For heavy pieces of live coral that will submerge the shipping bag, place the bag containing the coral in a plastic bowl or specimen container.
5. Add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag (Fig. D).
6. Repeat step 5 every four minutes until the shipping bag is full.
   
7. Lift the shipping bag from the aquarium and discard half the water from the bag (Fig. E).
8. Float the shipping bag in the aquarium again and proceed to add 1/2 cup of aquarium water to the shipping bag every four minutes until the bag is full.
9. Net aquatic life from the shipping bag and release into the aquarium (Fig. F).
10. Remove the filled shipping bag from the aquarium and discard the water. Never release shipping water directly into the aquarium.

Drip Method

This method is considered more advanced. It is geared toward sensitive inhabitants such as corals, shrimp, sea stars, and wrasses. You will need airline tubing and must be willing to monitor the entire process. Gather a clean, 3 or 5-gallon bucket designated for aquarium use only. If acclimating both fish and invertebrates, use a separate bucket for each.

1. Start with Steps 1-3 of the floating method to acclimate water temperature.
2. Carefully empty the contents of the bags (including the water) into the buckets (Fig. G), making sure not to expose sensitive invertebrates to the air. Depending on the amount of water in each bag, this may require tilting the bucket at a 45 degree angle to make sure the animals are fully submerged (Fig. H). You may need a prop or wedge to help hold the bucket in this position until there is enough liquid in the bucket to put it back to a level position.
3. Using airline tubing, set up and run a siphon drip line from the main aquarium to each bucket. You’ll need separate airline tubing for each bucket used. Tie several loose knots in the airline tubing, or use a plastic or other non-metal airline control valve, (Fig. I), to regulate flow from the aquarium. It is also a good idea to secure the airline tubing in place with an airline holder. The Doctors Foster and Smith Acclimation Kit is a convenient alternative that simplifies the drip acclimation process.
4. Begin a siphon by sucking on the end of the airline tubing you'll be placing into each of the buckets. When water begins flowing through the tubing, adjust the drip (by tightening one of the knots or adjusting the control valve) to a rate of about 2-4 drips per second (Fig. J).
5. When the water volume in the bucket doubles, discard half and begin the drip again until the volume doubles once more – about one hour. 
6. At this point, the specimens can be transferred to the aquarium. Sponges, clams, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Gently scoop them out of the drip bucket with the specimen bag, making sure they’re fully covered in water. Submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and gently remove the specimen from the bag. Next, seal off the bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted water will escape into the aquarium; this is O.K. Also, to avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of live coral when handling.

NOTE: Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to changes in specific gravity. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result. Test specific gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer.

How to Care for Silver Dollar Fish?

Just a small article for people who need to know a few things before buying this amazing piranha (yes, they are related to piranhas but have tiny teeth).

1.Silver Dollars do grow large and fast so you will probably need a big tank to accommodate them. Because they grow to the size of a dinner plate (8 inches in diameter), a VERY large tank will be needed to house a shoal of 4-6 adult fish. A 300 gallon or larger tank would be appropriate for these fish. So keep this in mind if you plan on having these fish for a long time.

2.Silver Dollars prefer subdued lighting and may become shy if the lighting is too intense. But, they have been known to get used to regular lighting.

3.The water should be to usual standards (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, <40 nitrate etc.), pH 6-7.5 or so.

4.A good temperature would be about 24-28 C (75-80 F) or around that.

Tips:

-->You can buy romaine lettuce and hang it from the side of the tank and they will devour it.

-->They should also be fed some live foods like brine shrimp and blood-worms. Water quality doesn't seem to be critical but keep it clean.

-->Silver dollars make a great addition to any large tank. They are a shoaling fish so try to get 6 or so of them.

-->Buy several plants for them to graze on so they won't totally destroy any single one, giving them a chance to grow back.
-->They like the large(about the size of a dime)vegetable discs that are normally for large Pleco's.
Warnings:

-->They also don't like certain kinds of swordplants (Amazon) but not all. They definitely eat melon swords, so avoid those.

-->Silver dollars are vegetarian by nature so they'll eat everything green but seem to avoid things like java moss and java fern as well as tough-leaved plants like anubias.
-->They will however eat any exposed roots and kill a plant if you aren’t careful.
Things You Need:

-->Silver dollar fish

-->Large fish tank
-->A decent filter can clean tank 3 to 5 times per hour

How to Choose Aquarium Equipment

Fishkeeping is really more of an art than a science. As a true aquarist, you'll develop an appreciation for the beauty of the hobby and a certain respect for the creatures in your tank.

You'll come to view your aquarium not as a pastime or as an attractive addition to your living room, but as a delicate, vibrant system that takes shape and comes to life through your efforts, skill, and vision.

Aquarium Fish Image Gallery

Like all arts, though, fishkeeping does have its technical side. To succeed, you have to create a suitable habitat for your fish, and to do that, you must use the proper tools. Knowing how your aquarium equipment works and why you need it will greatly increase your chances of success.

When planning your aquarium, keep in mind that you probably won't need all of the items that

appear in the following pages. Consult with your dealer to determine which pieces of equipment are necessary to create the kind of aquarium you want.

As soon as fish are added to an aquarium, the normal processes of respiration and digestion produce waste products that pollute the water. There are also other sources of pollution, such as decaying uneaten food.

The biggest challenge in keeping an aquarium is controlling the level of these pollutants so that your fish have a healthy environment. One of the things you need to meet that challenge is an effective aquarium filtration system.

In many ways, aquarium filtration is the most complicated and difficult aspect of fishkeeping. A visit to any well-stocked aquarium or pet store will reveal an astonishing array of filters that vary widely in design and price.

In addition, the beginning aquarist faces a lot of new terms that are used to describe filters. Understanding how filters work and what they accomplish can make it much easier to sort through everything.

You may assume that the basic goal of filtration is to remove debris floating in the water so that it doesn't cause pollution. While this is correct, it's only part of the story.

This process is mechanical filtration. If mechanical filtration is sufficient, very little solid matter will be left floating in the water. However, just because the water looks clean doesn't mean it is safe for fish.

Most of the pollution that causes the water quality to deteriorate can't be seen. In order to remove it, two other types of filtration are needed: chemical filtration and biological filtration.

Only when mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration are available can a truly healthy environment be maintained for the fish. Aquarists often use two different filters together in order to provide these three types of filtration. This is because filter designs that are very good at providing one or possibly two types of filtration tend to be less effective at providing the remaining types.

Mechanical aquarium filtration is accomplished by moving water through some kind of material that acts like a sieve, catching the solids and removing them from the water. Ideally, the most effective mechanical filter removes particles down to very small sizes, but there is a trade-off here.

The smaller the particles are that the filter removes, the faster the filter material will clog. Because clogged filter material severely reduces the rate of water flow through it, the material must be cleaned or changed. The more effective the filter material is at trapping small particles, the more often you will have to clean the filter.

For this reason, most filter material is designed to catch only the larger, more visible solids. Of course, as the filter material catches large particles, the openings in the material through which the water flows become increasingly smaller and thus trap increasingly smaller particles. The material does clog eventually, but it takes much longer.

Chemical aquarium filtration is needed because a number of dissolved, invisible compounds accumulate in aquarium water and they can't be removed by mechanical filtration.

These compounds are not toxic to the fish but can inhibit their growth and cause chronic, low-level stress that eventually leads to disease. Most of these compounds are dissolved organic substances produced by natural biological decay.

The dissolved organic substances eventually reach concentrations high enough to become visible as a yellowish tinge in the water. You can see this when a sheet of white paper is held behind the tank so that half of it is viewed through the water.

If the water is healthy for the fish, the paper viewed through the water will be as white as the other half; if not, the paper will have a yellowish cast to it.

Chemical filtration removes many, but not all, of these compounds. However, some substances that affect the growth of the fish can only be removed by making partial water changes on a regular basis.

If this isn't done, the fish will never grow to normal adult size. This stunted growth will result in fish that never achieve the beauty of mature fish, and it can cause other related health problems.

There are many ways to accomplish chemical filtration, but for all practical purposes, the only method that is both effective and relatively economical is to pass the aquarium water over granular activated carbon.

Granular activated carbon is usually made from an organic material, such as coconut shells, that is ground into small pieces and then heated to 2,000° Fahrenheit to drive off gases in the material. This "activation" produces carbon that can adsorb the molecules of compounds in the water and hold on to them. Adsorption is the adhesion of a thin layer of molecules to a solid (in this case, the activated carbon).

The carbon eventually becomes saturated with molecules and must be replaced. It cannot be reactivated by hobbyists because of the special ovens needed for the process.

Granular activated carbon should not be confused with charcoal, which is sold in some stores at a much lower price but does not provide effective chemical filtration.

There are a few things to keep in mind when using granular activated carbon. The smaller the granules of carbon, the greater the total surface area available to adsorb molecules for any given amount of carbon. The total surface area of the carbon determines how long you can wait before it is necessary to replace it.

A good rule of thumb is to use one ounce of carbon for every four gallons of water. If the tank is not overstocked with fish, the carbon should last at least a month and probably twice that.

See the next section to learn about biological aquarium filtration.

How to Care for Aquarium Fish

New hobbyists who have had problems keeping fish alive for even a few months are always shocked to find out that the normal life span of the typical aquarium fish is measured not in months but in years.
Although it varies from species to species, aquarium fish should live anywhere from three to seven years, or longer. Goldfish
can live for 20 years or more.
Fish can actually live longer, healthier lives and sometimes even grow larger in an aquarium than they do in the wild.
In nature, a fish's food supplies come and
go with the changing of the seasons and unusual weather patterns. The amount of food may be limited, and it often takes a lot of energy to find enough to survive.
Predators, including other fish, will keep nearly all the young of any species from reaching adulthood.
Few fish get to die of old age in the wild. Fish that are too weak or slow will quickly become dinner.
Although aquariums have limitations, they can be an environment where fish are able to flourish.
Learn about the proper way to feed your aquarium fish.

One of the three rules of fishkeeping is to not overfeed the fish. All uneaten food in a tank quickly pollutes the water. Overfeeding kills the fish with kindness. The best guideline is to feed only enough food each time for the to fish finish it within five minutes.
Most fish will do well on a diet consisting primarily of dry flake food. Use only brand-name, high-quality food. There is a wide variety of flake foods, and it is best to purchase several kinds and feed a different one each time. This helps ensure a more balanced diet for the fish.
Larger fish and many catfish will do better on pellet foods, which have more bulk. Freeze-dried foods are particularly good for fish that need a lot of protein. By occasionally offering fresh-frozen or live foods, you will ensure that your fish are getting a nutritionally complete diet.
When shopping for food, remember that commercial foods have a limited shelf life. If the containers are dusty or look like they have been on the shelf a long time, go somewhere else.
Purchase small containers. Yes, it is more economical to buy larger sizes, but once the containers are opened, the nutritional value of the food will begin to deteriorate.
Within three to six months, less than half the original nutritional value remains. For this reason, do not buy bulk-packed flake foods unless you have enough fish to consume it within a few months.
For vegetarian fish, there are flake foods that are formulated to provide much more vegetable material and less protein. Flake foods can be supplemented with freeze-dried, frozen, and even live foods, all of which are available at the aquarium store.
Many hobbyists keep small catfish in their tanks to eat excess food that falls to the bottom of the tank. These fish must receive the same quantity and quality of food as the rest of the residents.
Because they feed at the bottom of the tank, it is best to feed them just before turning off the tank lights. The catfish will feed in the dark while the other fish are resting. Heavy pellet foods sink and work especially well for this purpose.
Healthy fish can go for at least one or two weeks without eating. When you leave on vacation for a week or so, don't worry about not feeding the fish. More fish have probably died from severe water pollution as a result of well-meaning friends or neighbors overfeeding the fish than ever suffered from not eating for a week.

Diagnosing and treating aquarium fish diseases is so complex that entire books have been written on the subject. Fish can contract a great many illnesses, and curing them can take a great deal of knowledge and effort. In addition, preventing disease is almost always easier than curing it.
Fish that live in good-quality water, receive a balanced diet, and do not continually suffer from physical stress seldom get sick. Their immune systems are quite capable of protecting them from disease-causing organisms, which are always in the water. When they do get sick, though, it always helps to notice their condition early.
As a general rule, changes in the physical appearance and behavior of the fish are indicators of other problems, so it pays to observe your fish carefully. If any of these characteristics look suspicious, test the water to make sure there are no problems there. As a precaution, clean the filter and change a third of the water in the tank.
When you suspect that any of the fish may be sick, do not add any medications to the tank. You should not treat the tank without knowing what the fish is suffering from. Many fish medications are ineffective or contain so little medication that they do no good at all.
Antibiotics in particular are a problem. If used in small amounts, the bacteria they are supposed to kill can develop resistance to the drugs. When used at much higher doses, the nitrifying bacteria in the biological filter can be wiped out.
Most medications include instructions to change some of the water before each dose. As often as not, it is the water changes, not the medication, that are responsible for the fish getting better.
One common but easily cured disease is ich, which is caused by a parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifillis. This disease is typically brought on by physical stress, such as the fish being handled or the temperature of the water changing rapidly.
The fish's body and fins will be covered with very small white spots. Fortunately, ich can be cured easily by raising the water temperature to about 84º Fahrenheit and treating with the proper medication.
Avoid medications with copper in them. Copper can build up in an aquarium and then suddenly be released if the water chemistry changes, killing the fish. Copper is particularly dangerous in tanks with soft water.
Another common disease is fin rot. This disease results in the edges of the fins taking on an uneven appearance as they get shorter and shorter. This disease, which often results from poor environmental conditions, is easily treated with many of the medications available just for this purpose.
One other somewhat common disease is fungus -- typically a fuzzy, white cottony patch. This is a secondary disease, taking hold at the site of a physical injury. If the water quality is poor, fungus can infiltrate the wound. This problem is also easily cured with the proper medication. Ask your dealer for advice.

Things You Consider Before You Buy Your Aquarium

All different shapes, sizes and colors. Spikes, tails, pop eyes, you name it, fish have it. Fish are cool. But how do you look after them? All those water chemicals, live food, and business about putting two fish in the same tank sounds pretty scary. But don't sweat it... just read this guide! It contains all the info you need on taking care of those first fins. This guide takes you through buying fish, putting them in your tank, and looking after them.

1.Decide whether you want Tropical or Coldwater fish. Coldwater fish include goldfish and minnows. There are zillions of tropical fish, from angel fish to corydoras catfish. Coldwater fish are usually a little more hardy, and will survive those first few mistakes.

-->Start off with inexpensive fish, even if you can afford expensive ones. Inexpensive ones are inexpensive because they are very successful in their natural environments or so comfortable in captivity that they even breed regularly and, in either case, do not die easily on their way to and in pet stores. Do get something active and pretty though.

-->Do not start out with saltwater fish. They require techniques and understanding that are much more complex. Plus, the water you'll have to work with and that may leak is messy, slowly corrosive to metal, and conductive. If you think you want a saltwater tank, get a medium sized tropical fish tank with some plants and see if you can keep that in perfect order first for a year or so.

2.Decide what kind and how many fish you want.
-->Research before putting species together. Some fish are compatible, others aren't. One might speculate that fish would enjoy some activity in their lives, so don't get just one. (The fish need not be the same species; for some territorial fish, it is best that it isn't. An armored catfish can be a good "companion" for such a beast.)

-->Make sure you can provide any specialized care the fish need. For example, different fish need different foods, and some fish require more frequent maintenance than others. Owning fish is a big responsibility.

-->Some fish are perfectly happy with flakes and can be fed with an automatic feeder, which makes it possible to leave the tank unattended for a week or two (assumingali the fish are small so the water doesn't need very frequent changing).

3.Get an appropriately sized tank. Look up the minimum tank size for each fish.

-->For goldfish, buy a tank with 20 gallons for the first goldfish, and 10 gallons for each additional goldfish.

-->For smaller freshwater fish, get one gallon per inch of adult fish.

-->The larger freshwater fish require more room. The volume of a fish, and thus, roughly, the amount of food it turns into waste, increases not with its length but with the cube of its length. Therefore, you could keep two or three Neon Tetras, which grow to only an inch or so, per gallon of water, but three or four big six-inch cichlids would be more than enough for a fifty-gallon tank (assuming they aren't very territorial, in which case they might think only one or two is enough!)

-->Active swimmers such as wild-type goldfish and and tetras should have a tank many times their body length. In a small tank, slow swimmers such as fancy double-tailed goldfish and Siamese fighting fish will still be happy.

4.Make sure you have all the proper equipment- filters, heaters (for tropical fish), water conditioner, test kit, etc

5.Set up the tank and cycle it.

6.Put your fish in. Only add a few fish to start with, and slowly build up the population. Adding too many fish at once can overload your filtration system.

7.Perform partial water changes weekly. 20-30% is a good amount. To do a water change, get a gravel vacuum and siphon out any waste in the substrate. This will pull out water at the same time. Replace the water with water from your tap, but remember to treat it with a water conditioner.

8.Test the water regularly. Make sure you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and under 40 nitrate.

9.Feed your fish two or three times a day.

10.Monitor your fish. While they eat, sit and actually observe them. Check for anything strange: changing color, falling off fins, damaged tails, etc. Also, make sure all of your fish are getting along.

11.Try not to stress out your fish. This includes putting your hand in the tank when you don't need to, touching them, or jumping near the tank

How to Take Care of a Betta Fish?

Betta splendens, also known as "Bettas" and "Siamese fighting fish", are popular pets recognized for their aggressiveness, interactiveness, and relatively low cost for maintenance and care. Betta fish can prove to be your best friend for up to four years. Follow these tips to make sure your new pal has a great, happy and healthy life.

1.Know your betta fish. There are various important characteristics and needs of these fish that every owner needs to be aware of. Having a general understanding of what to look for before buying will mean that you make choices that help to ensure the longevity of your pets. When purchasing your Betta fish, think about these main things:

-->Color. Is the Betta's color bright and vivid, or is it very dull and pale? Bettas come in a variety of colors, but blues and reds (dark colors in general) are most common.

-->Receptiveness. Does the betta respond to your movement at all? Does it swim around rapidly when seeing you, or does it merely sit at the bottom and sulk? Don't repeatedly tap the container, as doing so agitates the fish. Instead, try moving your finger back and forth in front of the Betta. Don't be afraid to buy a somewhat docile Betta though; they generally have many encounters with other people during their day, and may simply be resting. The average Betta bought in a pet store has been bred to withstand a lot of the hassles of a pet's lifestyle.

-->Overall health. Are its fins in good condition, or are they torn or otherwise damaged? Are the Betta's eyes in good shape? Do you see any odd lumps (parasites) on its body? If you see anything highly out of the ordinary, consider another Betta.

-->The right one. Sometimes, the fish will choose you, not the other way around. If there is one Betta that you look at, set down, move on from it, but are drawn back to it repeatedly, consider buying it. Even if it is not completely healthy, buy the fish you feel connected to, rather than the healthiest one there. He will likely heal up once out of the tiny cup and gets a fresh start in warm, clean water.

2.Do some initial background research. There is a lot to know about betta fish, even beyond the basics just outlined. In general, large box stores aren't in the business of providing detailed information, unless you happen to strike a betta enthusiast salesperson. As well as having the basic understanding of betta outlined above, you might consider researching more details about betta fish online at sites like bettafish.com,bettatalk.com, ibcbettas.org, etc. These sites will remain useful for you after purchase too, as you'll be able to ask questions, check up health and nutrition notes and find like-minded betta fans to share stories with.

House For a Betta Fish

1.Prepare your Betta's home. Have a proper set up ready before bringing home your new pet. This prevents possible mishaps. 

-->Don't place Betta fish in with other fish without doing your research on compatibility first. In general, assume that the Betta fish will be aggressive toward other fish and may well try to kill them (some exceptions are provided below when discussing suitable tank-mates).

2.Choose a suitable home. In the wild, Bettas inhabit Thai rice paddies. Hence, they are suited to living in relatively shallow but spacious environments. To meet the spacious need, consider giving your Betta a decently sized tank to help prolong its life. Pick a tank of 5 gallons or more for your Betta to thrive. It may seem a lot, but it's what your fish deserves.

3.Add the necessary equipment. Various equipment is required for the successful keeping of Betta fish:

-->Purchase a heater with a thermostat––Betta fish like water temperatures between 76-82ºF/24-27ºC. Bettas may require a heater in some cases––for example, if you live in a cold country or if you have an aquarium below room temperature, then a heater is required. Mini-heaters are available for Betta tanks between 1-3 gallons. During the winter, you may want to add a mini heater or place your aquarium close to a radiator (1 meter away), to prevent your Betta from becoming too cold.

-->Filters are always necessary but make sure the current is not too strong for your Betta. Bear in mind that the long-finned varieties do best with as little current as possible. Some experts recommend the use of sponge filters, to protect the fins.

-->Avoid jagged rocks or decorations. Such decorations can easily tear Betta fins. It's recommended that you check once a day that there are no tears in the Betta's fins. If there are tears, first check the water quality, as tears are typically caused by poor water maintenance.

-->Avoid adding any hard plastic plants. Again, these can be rough on the fins. Use the 'pantyhose test': If a plastic plant will snag a pair of pantyhose when rubbed against it, then it will damage your Betta's fins. Be safe and buy silk plants instead.

-->Live plants are a great idea. They're prettier than fake ones, and Betta fish love lounging on the leaves and hiding in them to sleep. Live plants also help to oxygenate the water and keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time.

4.If you're considering adding tank-mates, do your research. Betta fish tend to prefer being alone and may kill other fish and even snails if added to the tank. Some people believe that Betta fish are good with tank-mates such as snails, ghost or cherry shrimp and neon tetras, and consider that as long as the fish sharing the tank is not bigger, more colorful or fin nipping, it should be okay. That said, some of the more aggressive Betta fish simply prefer to be alone and will attack even a snail. Before adding any sort of tank-mate, do thorough research by asking questions of the retailer, reading in books about Betta fish or checking online sites dedicated to Betta fish (ask other Betta owners in the forums). If in doubt, leave the tank-mate out.

-->Male Betta fish cannot live with other male Betta fish. They are named Siamese fighting fish for a reason! In an aquarium setting, they will fight to the death in order to protect their living space, regardless of the size of the tank. If your tank does not have a partition, do not risk losing one or both of your Betta fish by allowing them to live together.

-->Keep female Betta fish either singly or in groups of at least five, to lessen any aggression. The tank must be at least 10 gallons and have several hiding spots if keeping multiple females. All females must be added at the same time. Don't place only two female Betta fish in your tank. They establish a "pecking order" and having only two female fish means that the less dominant one gets picked on exclusively.

-->Female Betta fish will fight males and vice versa. Don't put them in together. Read up on breeding them if you think you want to try it, but remember that breeding bettas is a huge commitment, and not something to be taken lightly.

-->Putting a mirror up to the side of the tank can cause a Betta to flare because he/she thinks that there is a rival in his/her territory. This can stress out the fish, so avoid mirrors.

 Add Water to Tank

1.Prepare the water. Use a water conditioner such as Prime before putting fresh tap water in the tank. The chlorine and chloramines in standard tap water can harm Bettas, as well as kill off all that beneficial bacteria housed in the filter. Older sources may suggest aging the water (standing it for a time) but it's best to use a water conditioner, as aged water removes chlorine but not chloramine and heavy metals.

-->It is a not a good idea to use bottled water because this deprives your Betta of necessary minerals and is not fish 'safe'. Treated tap water is both a cheaper and better alternative.

2.Fill the Betta's tank. If the tank is without a top cover, fill it about 80% high to ensure your fish won't leap out. Bettas are very active and can jump over 3 inches/7.5cm when motivated! However, Bettas usually won't be trying to escape if they're happy in their home.

Adding Your Betta to the New Home:

1.Add your Betta. Slowly and carefully tip the container in which you received your Betta into the new habitat, allowing the new water and old water to mix. This will make the water easier for your fish to adjust to––if the habitat water is much colder or warmer than the previous water, mixing waters will help allay any shock for the fish. Be gentle as you tip in the Betta!

-->Avoid netting a Betta when possible, as this can damage the delicate fins. If you need to pick up a Betta, try to use a small cup to scoop him/her up with care.

Feeding the Betta

1.Feed your Betta. Your Betta's diet should consist primarily of pellets specifically made for feeding Betta. For special occasions, feed frozen brine shrimp or blood worms.

-->Check the ingredients of the pellets. The first three should be protein based. Experts say that protein in the pellets should be no less than 40%. Tropical fish flakes, goldfish flakes, and the like, are not suitable for Betta fish.

-->Though live food may be exciting to watch, frozen and dried products are generally best. They are safer and free from potential parasites. Frozen or dried blood worms make for a great treat.

2.Feed your Betta regularly. Betta fish vary in eating habits from each other, so experiment to see how much food your Betta eats. Set up routine feeding times, for example, once in the morning and once at night. If you stick to this routine, you may even find that your Betta will be waiting for you when it's time to eat!

-->Take care not to overfeed the fish. Overfeeding can be a problem in some Betta fish, as they will eat as long as you feed them (which can be fatal). On the other hand, other Betta fish will stop eating when they're full. Overfeeding can cause bloating, though this is not as serious as a similar condition referred to as dropsy. It can, however, cause bladder problems later on, which can also be fatal.

3.Clean up any extra food that your Betta does not eat. Similarly, watch your Betta to see if he/she spits up any food. This could be a sign that your Betta is a picky eater, or it could also mean that the pellets are too big for the Betta's mouth. Ironically, most big fish food companies don't realize that Betta fish have smaller mouths than, say, goldfish or others.

-->You can cut the pellets in half with a small razor blade or such to allow it to fit in the Betta's mouth easier. If it still refuses to eat, try another brand of pellets or dried food.

4.Turn feeding time into a little enrichment exercise. Put a straw in the tank and watch your Betta to see if he/she gets used to it. If he/she does, and you have leftover Betta food he/she won't eat, place one of the leftover pellets in the tank. Place the straw over it so that it is inside the straw. Hold the straw over the fish and wait for him/her to find it. After your Betta finds it, he/she will follow it. You can then slowly lift the straw up to the top of the tank until the food pops out and your Betta will eat it.

Keeping the Betta Tank Clean

Betta fish are only hardy to different water types, such as hard and soft water. This means that you should not change the water or rearrange the aquarium too frequently.

1.Clean your Betta's tank. Place your Betta in container filled with old water while washing the tank. Simply wash the tank with hot water, as some soaps will harm your Betta. If your habitat has rocks, rinse them thoroughly. Fill the habitat half way with fresh tap water, return the Betta and some of the old water, and then fill the rest with tap water again.

-->Be sure to add a de-chlorinator (also known as a water conditioner) to the water; this will remove any harmful chlorine/chloramine that is in tap water that may kill your fish. It will also filter bacteria.

-->Be sure that the water you are changing is the same temperature as the old water the Betta was in, to avoid temperature shock; such shock can be deadly to your Betta. Use an in-tank thermometer to check the water temperatures.

2.Test the water weekly. In order to test water parameters each week, you will need a master fresh water test kit. This will allow you to monitor your aquarium and take readings. Follow the instructions for testing provided by the manufacturer.

-->Place notes in your calendar or diary to remind yourself that it's time to test the water.

Ongoing Enjoyment

1,Have fun with your new friend. Betta fish come to recognize their owners. They will actually learn faces and even simple games. Keep your betta company and say "hi" once in a while, so he learns who you are!

-->Betta fish are very curious and often develop a strong bond with their caretaker.

2.Play with your Betta fish. Betta fish are enjoyable to watch and spend time with. You can play with your fish by moving your finger back and forth along the tank edge (never bang the tank or poke the water). Watch your Betta follow you. And above all, don't forget toname your fish!

-->Never tap the glass of the tank. This action easily agitates the fish and can cause the fish to go into shock and die. To interact through movement, simply slowly rest your finger on the glass and slide it along to see if your Betta will follow it. If he/she backs away and seems frightened, then stop immediately. You can eventually try again once you the Betta is more accustomed and less afraid of you.

Fun Facts About Betta Fish

A few things that it's nice to know about Betta fish:

-->Betta fish are members of the Anabantoid family (gouramis are also in this family). They have a back-up breathing system that allows them to breathe surface air, however, they still require a filtration system in their tanks.

-->Female Betta fish are typically smaller than make Betta fish. They lack the beautiful finnage that males possess. However, they can still be equally as beautiful in their own way—–and feisty! Don't keep them together though, as the female may latch onto the male's vivid fins, causing them to tear.

-->Male Betta fish build bubble nests when happy!

-->If a male likes a female, he flares his gills, twists his body, and spreads his fins. If a female likes a male, she wriggles back and front.