Showing posts with label Standard Aquariums. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Standard Aquariums. Show all posts

Friday, July 19, 2013

An Introduction to Livebearing Fish


Just as their name suggests, livebearers are fish that give birth to live, free-swimming young. However, in the aquarium hobby, the term live-bearer is commonly used to refer to a specific group of fish belonging to the family Poeciliidae. This group of freshwater fish includes perennial aquarium favorites such as mollies, guppies, and platies.

Caring for Live-bearers:

Livebearers are able to thrive in a variety of water conditions and do well in planted aquariums. Though peaceful in temperament, it is a good idea to keep several pairs of the same species to eliminate any potential aggression that may occur. Livebearers are omnivores and require both algae-based foods as well as meaty foods. A varied diet including algae-based flake food, along with freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex worms, and brine shrimp will provide proper nutrition to a wide range of different live bearer species.
With an average life expectancy between 5 and 7 years, livebearers are relatively long-lived. This allows most hobbyists to witness the birth of several generations of fry. In fact, one of the most fascinating aspects of keeping live-bearers is the rearing of young fry. Hobbyists of all ages will be immediately enthralled and discover a new joy to fish keeping. Live bearers provide depth and dimension to fish keeping, provide a fantastic learning experience for both children and adults, and nurture a life-long appreciation for the aquarium hobby.


Birth of Live-bearers:

For most hobbyists, their first experience with fry (baby fish) is often through livebearers. Without any effort on your part, you may discover that the livebearers you brought home have given birth to a small brood. Depending on water conditions, temperature, and diet some live bearers can have broods as often as every four to eight weeks. You can tell if a female is ready to give birth by her enlarged abdomen or a dark spot located near her anal fin. The spot will turn darker as her delivery date nears. But you must be watchful because some fish will eagerly feast on the newly hatched fry.


To prevent this from happening, place the pregnant female in a separate 5-20 gallon breeding tank just before she releases the fry. This nursery should have all the features of a regular aquarium including filtration (simple foam filters are a great choice), a heater, and some artificial plants for cover. Float the plants, as babies will hide at the surface when first born. Substrate is not necessary and having no substrate makes it easier to see and remove uneaten food. After the pregnant female has released all of her fry, remove the female and return her to the main display aquarium.

Raising Fry:

The fry should be fed a quality food, such as baby brine shrimp, baby fish food, or quality flake food ground into a fine powder. Feed the fry small amounts several times a day. Maintain good water quality by performing regular water changes. Using water from your established aquarium is a great way to acclimate the fry to water conditions of their future home. In about 4 to 6 weeks, the babies should be large enough to release into the main aquarium. But be sure the babies have grown larger than the mouths of adult fish. If it's not possible to set up a separate aquarium, drop-in breeders are a great alternative. Keep in mind that the babies will quickly outgrow and crowd the net breeder. The fry will need to be moved to a larger aquarium sooner to ensure proper growth.

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Small Aquariums: The Perfect Gift to Beautify the Home or Office

Have you considered bringing the beauty and therapeutic benefits of an aquarium to your home or office? Perhaps you decided against it thinking, "I don't have room or time to set up an aquarium... especially during the holidays." Thanks to today's small desktop aqua
riums, adding the colorful and wonderful beauty of tropical fish is easier than ever.
Glass bowls are a thing of the past
Technological advances have brought about lightweight acrylic aquariums that dramatically redefine the concept of small aquariums. Sophisticated, streamlined, and designed for convenient set up, many desktop aquariums now feature an all-inclusive hood with built-in filtration and lighting. These integrated systems save time by simplifying equipment selection and fish enjoy much healthier water conditions.

Fun new pets and learning opportunities for everyone
A new desktop aquarium makes a perfect gift for children or budding hobbyists of any age. Not only are they beautiful to look at, aquariums are fun, educational tools that parents and children can enjoy together. The excitement generated over an aquarium spurs eager minds to share what they learned with family members and friends.

Monday, June 17, 2013

How to Make a Shrimp Aquarium?

Keeping freshwater shrimp is popular among aquarists,especially those in the planted tank hobby. Freshwater shrimp are hardy,make excellent scavengers on the tank bottom, and they can live in small aquaria, making them ideal for desks,offices,or coffee tables. Read on to learn how to set up an aquarium for your shrimp.

Steps
1.Rinse the aquarium under hot tap water for at least 100 seconds.Don't even use soap to clean the aquarium as it's toxic to many animals(except for us humans.). When keeping shrimp in aquariums, allow 1 quart(1 liter)of water for 1 shrimp. So that means that a 3 gallon tank can safely hold 12 shrimp.
2.Add substrate. The substrate can be gravel,sand or even soil(for planted tanks). Rinse the substrate under boiling water before adding them to your tank. Substrate is optional,however.
3.Add plants. Many shrimp love climbing on plants so by giving plants, not only will the plants boost up oxygen levels and remove ammonia in the water, your shrimp will also get exercise and a 24/7 salad bar.
4.Add any other decor you have. Then fill the tank up with spring water.Be sure to add some AquaSafe into the water before putting it in the tank.
5.Wait at least a day before adding several drops of Stress Zyme into the water. Stress Zyme will cycle your water in the aquarium. Allow at least 1 week of cycling before adding any shrimp.
Tips:
  • This setup can also be applied to small fish or snails.
  • Remember your plants need light to carry out photosynthesis but don't put the aquarium in direct sunlight, unless you want steamed shrimp on your plate.
  • You can also use marbles as a substrate for shrimp.

Warnings 
  • This setup can also be applied to small fish or snails.
  • Remember your plants need light to carry out photosynthesis but don't put the aquarium in direct sunlight, unless you want steamed shrimp on your plate.
  • You can also use marbles as a substrate for shrimp.
Things You Will Need:
  • Aquarium
  • Plants
  • Substrate
  • AquaSafe
  • Cover
  • Stress Zyme
  • Shrimp

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

How to Care for Aquarium Fish

New hobbyists who have had problems keeping fish alive for even a few months are always shocked to find out that the normal life span of the typical aquarium fish is measured not in months but in years.
Although it varies from species to species, aquarium fish should live anywhere from three to seven years, or longer. Goldfish
can live for 20 years or more.
Fish can actually live longer, healthier lives and sometimes even grow larger in an aquarium than they do in the wild.
In nature, a fish's food supplies come and
go with the changing of the seasons and unusual weather patterns. The amount of food may be limited, and it often takes a lot of energy to find enough to survive.
Predators, including other fish, will keep nearly all the young of any species from reaching adulthood.
Few fish get to die of old age in the wild. Fish that are too weak or slow will quickly become dinner.
Although aquariums have limitations, they can be an environment where fish are able to flourish.
Learn about the proper way to feed your aquarium fish.
One of the three rules of fishkeeping is to not overfeed the fish. All uneaten food in a tank quickly pollutes the water. Overfeeding kills the fish with kindness. The best guideline is to feed only enough food each time for the to fish finish it within five minutes.
Most fish will do well on a diet consisting primarily of dry flake food. Use only brand-name, high-quality food. There is a wide variety of flake foods, and it is best to purchase several kinds and feed a different one each time. This helps ensure a more balanced diet for the fish.
Larger fish and many catfish will do better on pellet foods, which have more bulk. Freeze-dried foods are particularly good for fish that need a lot of protein. By occasionally offering fresh-frozen or live foods, you will ensure that your fish are getting a nutritionally complete diet.
When shopping for food, remember that commercial foods have a limited shelf life. If the containers are dusty or look like they have been on the shelf a long time, go somewhere else.
Purchase small containers. Yes, it is more economical to buy larger sizes, but once the containers are opened, the nutritional value of the food will begin to deteriorate.
Within three to six months, less than half the original nutritional value remains. For this reason, do not buy bulk-packed flake foods unless you have enough fish to consume it within a few months.
For vegetarian fish, there are flake foods that are formulated to provide much more vegetable material and less protein. Flake foods can be supplemented with freeze-dried, frozen, and even live foods, all of which are available at the aquarium store.
Many hobbyists keep small catfish in their tanks to eat excess food that falls to the bottom of the tank. These fish must receive the same quantity and quality of food as the rest of the residents.
Because they feed at the bottom of the tank, it is best to feed them just before turning off the tank lights. The catfish will feed in the dark while the other fish are resting. Heavy pellet foods sink and work especially well for this purpose.
Healthy fish can go for at least one or two weeks without eating. When you leave on vacation for a week or so, don't worry about not feeding the fish. More fish have probably died from severe water pollution as a result of well-meaning friends or neighbors overfeeding the fish than ever suffered from not eating for a week.
Diagnosing and treating aquarium fish diseases is so complex that entire books have been written on the subject. Fish can contract a great many illnesses, and curing them can take a great deal of knowledge and effort. In addition, preventing disease is almost always easier than curing it.
Fish that live in good-quality water, receive a balanced diet, and do not continually suffer from physical stress seldom get sick. Their immune systems are quite capable of protecting them from disease-causing organisms, which are always in the water. When they do get sick, though, it always helps to notice their condition early.
As a general rule, changes in the physical appearance and behavior of the fish are indicators of other problems, so it pays to observe your fish carefully. If any of these characteristics look suspicious, test the water to make sure there are no problems there. As a precaution, clean the filter and change a third of the water in the tank.
When you suspect that any of the fish may be sick, do not add any medications to the tank. You should not treat the tank without knowing what the fish is suffering from. Many fish medications are ineffective or contain so little medication that they do no good at all.
Antibiotics in particular are a problem. If used in small amounts, the bacteria they are supposed to kill can develop resistance to the drugs. When used at much higher doses, the nitrifying bacteria in the biological filter can be wiped out.
Most medications include instructions to change some of the water before each dose. As often as not, it is the water changes, not the medication, that are responsible for the fish getting better.
One common but easily cured disease is ich, which is caused by a parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifillis. This disease is typically brought on by physical stress, such as the fish being handled or the temperature of the water changing rapidly.
The fish's body and fins will be covered with very small white spots. Fortunately, ich can be cured easily by raising the water temperature to about 84ยบ Fahrenheit and treating with the proper medication.
Avoid medications with copper in them. Copper can build up in an aquarium and then suddenly be released if the water chemistry changes, killing the fish. Copper is particularly dangerous in tanks with soft water.
Another common disease is fin rot. This disease results in the edges of the fins taking on an uneven appearance as they get shorter and shorter. This disease, which often results from poor environmental conditions, is easily treated with many of the medications available just for this purpose.
One other somewhat common disease is fungus -- typically a fuzzy, white cottony patch. This is a secondary disease, taking hold at the site of a physical injury. If the water quality is poor, fungus can infiltrate the wound. This problem is also easily cured with the proper medication. Ask your dealer for advice.

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

How to Take Care of a Betta Fish?

Betta splendens, also known as "Bettas" and "Siamese fighting fish", are popular pets recognized for their aggressiveness, interactiveness, and relatively low cost for maintenance and care. Betta fish can prove to be your best friend for up to four years. Follow these tips to make sure your new pal has a great, happy and healthy life.
1.Know your betta fish. There are various important characteristics and needs of these fish that every owner needs to be aware of. Having a general understanding of what to look for before buying will mean that you make choices that help to ensure the longevity of your pets. When purchasing your Betta fish, think about these main things:
-->Color. Is the Betta's color bright and vivid, or is it very dull and pale? Bettas come in a variety of colors, but blues and reds (dark colors in general) are most common.
-->Receptiveness. Does the betta respond to your movement at all? Does it swim around rapidly when seeing you, or does it merely sit at the bottom and sulk? Don't repeatedly tap the container, as doing so agitates the fish. Instead, try moving your finger back and forth in front of the Betta. Don't be afraid to buy a somewhat docile Betta though; they generally have many encounters with other people during their day, and may simply be resting. The average Betta bought in a pet store has been bred to withstand a lot of the hassles of a pet's lifestyle.
-->Overall health. Are its fins in good condition, or are they torn or otherwise damaged? Are the Betta's eyes in good shape? Do you see any odd lumps (parasites) on its body? If you see anything highly out of the ordinary, consider another Betta.
-->The right one. Sometimes, the fish will choose you, not the other way around. If there is one Betta that you look at, set down, move on from it, but are drawn back to it repeatedly, consider buying it. Even if it is not completely healthy, buy the fish you feel connected to, rather than the healthiest one there. He will likely heal up once out of the tiny cup and gets a fresh start in warm, clean water.
2.Do some initial background research. There is a lot to know about betta fish, even beyond the basics just outlined. In general, large box stores aren't in the business of providing detailed information, unless you happen to strike a betta enthusiast salesperson. As well as having the basic understanding of betta outlined above, you might consider researching more details about betta fish online at sites like bettafish.com,bettatalk.com, ibcbettas.org, etc. These sites will remain useful for you after purchase too, as you'll be able to ask questions, check up health and nutrition notes and find like-minded betta fans to share stories with.

House For a Betta Fish
1.Prepare your Betta's home. Have a proper set up ready before bringing home your new pet. This prevents possible mishaps. 
-->Don't place Betta fish in with other fish without doing your research on compatibility first. In general, assume that the Betta fish will be aggressive toward other fish and may well try to kill them (some exceptions are provided below when discussing suitable tank-mates).
2.Choose a suitable home. In the wild, Bettas inhabit Thai rice paddies. Hence, they are suited to living in relatively shallow but spacious environments. To meet the spacious need, consider giving your Betta a decently sized tank to help prolong its life. Pick a tank of 5 gallons or more for your Betta to thrive. It may seem a lot, but it's what your fish deserves.
3.Add the necessary equipment. Various equipment is required for the successful keeping of Betta fish:
-->Purchase a heater with a thermostat––Betta fish like water temperatures between 76-82ยบF/24-27ยบC. Bettas may require a heater in some cases––for example, if you live in a cold country or if you have an aquarium below room temperature, then a heater is required. Mini-heaters are available for Betta tanks between 1-3 gallons. During the winter, you may want to add a mini heater or place your aquarium close to a radiator (1 meter away), to prevent your Betta from becoming too cold.
-->Filters are always necessary but make sure the current is not too strong for your Betta. Bear in mind that the long-finned varieties do best with as little current as possible. Some experts recommend the use of sponge filters, to protect the fins.
-->Avoid jagged rocks or decorations. Such decorations can easily tear Betta fins. It's recommended that you check once a day that there are no tears in the Betta's fins. If there are tears, first check the water quality, as tears are typically caused by poor water maintenance.
-->Avoid adding any hard plastic plants. Again, these can be rough on the fins. Use the 'pantyhose test': If a plastic plant will snag a pair of pantyhose when rubbed against it, then it will damage your Betta's fins. Be safe and buy silk plants instead.
-->Live plants are a great idea. They're prettier than fake ones, and Betta fish love lounging on the leaves and hiding in them to sleep. Live plants also help to oxygenate the water and keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time.
4.If you're considering adding tank-mates, do your research. Betta fish tend to prefer being alone and may kill other fish and even snails if added to the tank. Some people believe that Betta fish are good with tank-mates such as snails, ghost or cherry shrimp and neon tetras, and consider that as long as the fish sharing the tank is not bigger, more colorful or fin nipping, it should be okay. That said, some of the more aggressive Betta fish simply prefer to be alone and will attack even a snail. Before adding any sort of tank-mate, do thorough research by asking questions of the retailer, reading in books about Betta fish or checking online sites dedicated to Betta fish (ask other Betta owners in the forums). If in doubt, leave the tank-mate out.
-->Male Betta fish cannot live with other male Betta fish. They are named Siamese fighting fish for a reason! In an aquarium setting, they will fight to the death in order to protect their living space, regardless of the size of the tank. If your tank does not have a partition, do not risk losing one or both of your Betta fish by allowing them to live together.
-->Keep female Betta fish either singly or in groups of at least five, to lessen any aggression. The tank must be at least 10 gallons and have several hiding spots if keeping multiple females. All females must be added at the same time. Don't place only two female Betta fish in your tank. They establish a "pecking order" and having only two female fish means that the less dominant one gets picked on exclusively.
-->Female Betta fish will fight males and vice versa. Don't put them in together. Read up on breeding them if you think you want to try it, but remember that breeding bettas is a huge commitment, and not something to be taken lightly.
-->Putting a mirror up to the side of the tank can cause a Betta to flare because he/she thinks that there is a rival in his/her territory. This can stress out the fish, so avoid mirrors.
 Add Water to Tank
1.Prepare the water. Use a water conditioner such as Prime before putting fresh tap water in the tank. The chlorine and chloramines in standard tap water can harm Bettas, as well as kill off all that beneficial bacteria housed in the filter. Older sources may suggest aging the water (standing it for a time) but it's best to use a water conditioner, as aged water removes chlorine but not chloramine and heavy metals.
-->It is a not a good idea to use bottled water because this deprives your Betta of necessary minerals and is not fish 'safe'. Treated tap water is both a cheaper and better alternative.
2.Fill the Betta's tank. If the tank is without a top cover, fill it about 80% high to ensure your fish won't leap out. Bettas are very active and can jump over 3 inches/7.5cm when motivated! However, Bettas usually won't be trying to escape if they're happy in their home.
Adding Your Betta to the New Home:
1.Add your Betta. Slowly and carefully tip the container in which you received your Betta into the new habitat, allowing the new water and old water to mix. This will make the water easier for your fish to adjust to––if the habitat water is much colder or warmer than the previous water, mixing waters will help allay any shock for the fish. Be gentle as you tip in the Betta!
-->Avoid netting a Betta when possible, as this can damage the delicate fins. If you need to pick up a Betta, try to use a small cup to scoop him/her up with care.
Feeding the Betta
1.Feed your Betta. Your Betta's diet should consist primarily of pellets specifically made for feeding Betta. For special occasions, feed frozen brine shrimp or blood worms.
-->Check the ingredients of the pellets. The first three should be protein based. Experts say that protein in the pellets should be no less than 40%. Tropical fish flakes, goldfish flakes, and the like, are not suitable for Betta fish.
-->Though live food may be exciting to watch, frozen and dried products are generally best. They are safer and free from potential parasites. Frozen or dried blood worms make for a great treat.
2.Feed your Betta regularly. Betta fish vary in eating habits from each other, so experiment to see how much food your Betta eats. Set up routine feeding times, for example, once in the morning and once at night. If you stick to this routine, you may even find that your Betta will be waiting for you when it's time to eat!
-->Take care not to overfeed the fish. Overfeeding can be a problem in some Betta fish, as they will eat as long as you feed them (which can be fatal). On the other hand, other Betta fish will stop eating when they're full. Overfeeding can cause bloating, though this is not as serious as a similar condition referred to as dropsy. It can, however, cause bladder problems later on, which can also be fatal.
3.Clean up any extra food that your Betta does not eat. Similarly, watch your Betta to see if he/she spits up any food. This could be a sign that your Betta is a picky eater, or it could also mean that the pellets are too big for the Betta's mouth. Ironically, most big fish food companies don't realize that Betta fish have smaller mouths than, say, goldfish or others.
-->You can cut the pellets in half with a small razor blade or such to allow it to fit in the Betta's mouth easier. If it still refuses to eat, try another brand of pellets or dried food.
4.Turn feeding time into a little enrichment exercise. Put a straw in the tank and watch your Betta to see if he/she gets used to it. If he/she does, and you have leftover Betta food he/she won't eat, place one of the leftover pellets in the tank. Place the straw over it so that it is inside the straw. Hold the straw over the fish and wait for him/her to find it. After your Betta finds it, he/she will follow it. You can then slowly lift the straw up to the top of the tank until the food pops out and your Betta will eat it.
Keeping the Betta Tank Clean
Betta fish are only hardy to different water types, such as hard and soft water. This means that you should not change the water or rearrange the aquarium too frequently.
1.Clean your Betta's tank. Place your Betta in container filled with old water while washing the tank. Simply wash the tank with hot water, as some soaps will harm your Betta. If your habitat has rocks, rinse them thoroughly. Fill the habitat half way with fresh tap water, return the Betta and some of the old water, and then fill the rest with tap water again.
-->Be sure to add a de-chlorinator (also known as a water conditioner) to the water; this will remove any harmful chlorine/chloramine that is in tap water that may kill your fish. It will also filter bacteria.
-->Be sure that the water you are changing is the same temperature as the old water the Betta was in, to avoid temperature shock; such shock can be deadly to your Betta. Use an in-tank thermometer to check the water temperatures.
2.Test the water weekly. In order to test water parameters each week, you will need a master fresh water test kit. This will allow you to monitor your aquarium and take readings. Follow the instructions for testing provided by the manufacturer.
-->Place notes in your calendar or diary to remind yourself that it's time to test the water.
Ongoing Enjoyment
1,Have fun with your new friend. Betta fish come to recognize their owners. They will actually learn faces and even simple games. Keep your betta company and say "hi" once in a while, so he learns who you are!
-->Betta fish are very curious and often develop a strong bond with their caretaker.
2.Play with your Betta fish. Betta fish are enjoyable to watch and spend time with. You can play with your fish by moving your finger back and forth along the tank edge (never bang the tank or poke the water). Watch your Betta follow you. And above all, don't forget toname your fish!
-->Never tap the glass of the tank. This action easily agitates the fish and can cause the fish to go into shock and die. To interact through movement, simply slowly rest your finger on the glass and slide it along to see if your Betta will follow it. If he/she backs away and seems frightened, then stop immediately. You can eventually try again once you the Betta is more accustomed and less afraid of you.

Fun Facts About Betta Fish
A few things that it's nice to know about Betta fish:
-->Betta fish are members of the Anabantoid family (gouramis are also in this family). They have a back-up breathing system that allows them to breathe surface air, however, they still require a filtration system in their tanks.
-->Female Betta fish are typically smaller than make Betta fish. They lack the beautiful finnage that males possess. However, they can still be equally as beautiful in their own way—–and feisty! Don't keep them together though, as the female may latch onto the male's vivid fins, causing them to tear.
-->Male Betta fish build bubble nests when happy!
-->If a male likes a female, he flares his gills, twists his body, and spreads his fins. If a female likes a male, she wriggles back and front.

Monday, June 10, 2013

How to Set Up an Aquarium?

Setting up your aquariumshould be a relatively simple procedure. You should be able to get the whole system up and running in a couple of hours at the most, although you'll have to wait some time before you add the fish.
The most important thing for you to do before you begin is to be sure you're prepared. Know in detail what you want the aquarium to be like when you're done, and be sure you have all the equipment, space, and tools you'll need.
A new, brand-name tank will almost certainly not leak, but you may want to be absolutely sure about this before setting up the tank in its final location. Choose a dry area, cover it with newspapers, and place the tank on them. Very carefully fill the tank to the rim with cool water and wait for an hour or two. If the newspapers are wet, you know you have a problem with your tank.
If there are no leaks, empty the tank, wipe out the interior, and place it on the aquarium stand in its permanent location. If you like, you can apply a background material to the back of the tank. This is optional, but many fish feel more secure if the back and sides are covered. Once this is done, you are ready to install the filtration system.
The undergravel filter plate should be rinsed thoroughly and then placed in the tank. If the plate does not fit the bottom exactly, place it so that it is up against the back of the tank and centered.
The lift tubes can be installed next. Because the tubes are designed to fit the tallest tanks, you may need to cut them to fit your particular aquarium. If so, cut the tubes so that the tops will be just below the surface of the water when the tank is filled.
Next, you must hook up all of the air line tubing to the undergravel filter and any air stones. Connect a length of tubing to the air pump.
If you are using a check valve to ensure that no water can flow into the air pump, make sure it is facing the correct direction. There is often an arrow on the body of the valve indicating this. You can also test the valve by blowing into either end to determine which way it allows air to flow.
Cut lengths of air tubing to go from the check valve to the gang valve or directly to the air line stems at the top of the undergravel lift tubes. Even if your air pump has two outlets and you are only using two lift tube air stones, a gang valve offers better control of the air flow to each piece of equipment.
When using a gang valve, the lines going to it from the air pump are connected at the side of the valve, and the lines going from the gang valve to the tank are connected at the top of the valve.
Be sure that there is a small amount of slack in the air tubing to avoid kinking the lines and blocking the flow of air. The air line going to the lift tubes or to any air stones in the tank should run through the appropriate openings in the back of the tank hood.
If you are using powerheads instead of an air pump to create water flow through the lift tubes, the lift tube should go into the opening in the plate that is one over from the corner opening. In this situation, the lift tubes can't go in the corner openings because powerheads won't fit into the corners of the tank after the hood is installed.All other openings in the undergravel filter should be closed with the caps provided with the filter. For undergravel filters with just one plate, only one powerhead is usually necessary.

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Urgent Situation Maintenance of Your Aquarium


If you stay with the activity long enough, you will likely be faced with problems of one type or another, no issue how properly you plan. Being prepared beforehand can make the difference between an annoying situation and the decrease of your entire collection.

One of the most useful pieces of emergency equipment available to the aquarist is battery power powered aerator. Initially sold to keep baitfish alive on fishing trips, systems of all sizes are now available in pet shops as well as in lure shops. Be sure to purchase enough systems to supply oxygen to all of your septic tanks in the occurrence of a energy failing (because when filters shut down due to an electrical failing your household pets will be declined the oxygenating effects of water movement). Pet shops also sell pills that reduce in water and release tiny pockets in the process, but these seem not nearly as effective as battery power powered aerators. Fish septic tanks may also be personally oxygenated by sweeping out water and serving it back into the container from above the ocean's surface.

In the occurrence of a temperature breakdown that overheats your water, a partially water modify with water of a cooler warm range may be necessary. Be sure that the water you add is not so freezing as to cause an extremely rapid modify in warm range. A constant warm range modify, even if it takes a many years to reach the ideal warm range level, is preferable to a serious drop in warm range. Container water may also be perfectly chilled by hovering hot water wines filled with ice or freezing water in the container. In all cases, be sure to properly monitor the warm range with an accurate aquarium temperature gauge.

“If your household pets have live through a warm range emergency and are living in water that is too hot or too freezing, be sure to adjust the ocean's warm range progressively. A sudden modify will stress most marine animals and may destroy them overall or leave them open to disease and parasitic infection in the near future.”

If a energy failing during freezing makes your aquarium temperatures too low, the water should be progressively reheated through the addition of hotter water or by hovering hot water wines in the container. Water drops warm fairly slowly, so you may be able to balance out a temporary energy reduction easily in this issue. In the occurrence of a longer period emergency, keep on hand enough efficiency to wrap completely around all of your aquariums. By doing this you will reduce the rate of warm reduction from the water.

For more information:
Aquarium Illusions Inc.
Phone:  780 483-7027
Fax:    780 483-7081
Toll Free:   1-800-559-6546 (In Canada)


Monday, March 12, 2012

How To Trace A Leak In Your Pool, Ways To Find A Leak In Your Pool, Pond Repair


So you're losing water in the pond, and I do not know where the water is going. Here are some things you can do to find out where the water is going.

1. Make sure there are no leaks in pipes to the outside of the pond. To do this, the feeling throughout the country in which the plumbing is the water pump is not here yet. Check for damp or wet soil. If you find an area that gets wet, carefully dig deeper and wider, is the source of water, or uphill from there. Key-note: the water flows through gravity, so if you find the area where the wet earth, the water could come from there or climb. It is necessary to trace the source of water. To do this step correctly, however, may need to disable the combat system, etc., to dry the ground so you can easily search for a wet area caused by the loss.

2. If you have searched along the entire pipeline in your area and found no leaks, then you want to check your pond liner. To do this, turn off the water source (ie the pump) for a few days if possible. (If you have fish, you may need to provide ventilation for them during this time of an air pump or a ventilation system.) Let's fall in water level is the lowest point in the pond. Then, when sure it is at its lowest level, look carefully around the pond only a little above or in the water. Find all the tears, the projections of stones, etc., which may be the source of the leak from a puncture in the wall.

If by chance your water level remains the same after you turn off your water feature and the water level in your pond has remained the same, then you probably missed it somewhere in your plumbing or drain comes from.

3. If you are sure that the plumbing does not miss a boat pond, you should consider your features like a water fountain or a waterfall. Fontana is a day of wind can easily blow the water out of the edges of the pond. Typically, the height of the fountain should be less than half the diameter of the pond. For example, if the fountain shoots water up to 6 meters in length, then the pond should be at least 12 feet in diameter, preferably much higher.

If you do not have a fountain, but there is a waterfall, and there is no leak anywhere else, check the entire area of ​​the waterfall. If the cascade is not built properly, water can flow behind rocks and boulders, where the water is difficult to detect unless you can dig deep, and the tears could have been done under the rock, when the is installed. In this case, unfortunately, to terminate its own waterfall and built properly to avoid future losses.

While repairing a Leak If you have found the cause of the leak in your pond by a pump or pipe connectors, make sure to cut your plumbing and replace it correctly taking your plumber.

If you have found the cause of the leak in the pond of a hole in the tank line, then you will need to carefully prepare the coating to repair the leak. This can lead to a reduction of water in the pond several inches below the leak, clean the skin very, very well, paving the area with the first adhesive quickly and then place another piece of the lining of the patch (cover band) on it and seal the edges, you can do the trick. If possible, get to the source of the problem though. (For example, removal of the rock or root that caused the puncture, for starters.) Therefore, you can repair the hole properly.

For more information:
Aquarium Illusions Inc.
Phone:  780 483-7027
Fax:    780 483-7081
Toll Free:   1-800-559-6546 (In Canada)

A Wet-Dry Filter, A Berlin Sump or a Refugium, What Should you Use with Your Aqaurium?


Definition
In a world of aquariums, the "Marsh" or "sump Berlin" a general term for an open basin or reservoir of water below the reservoir, fed by water from the surface of fish or reef tanks. The water is then returned to the top of the aquarium, using a pump connected or inside the sump. A swamp can also be part of a filter system which also has an open space for pumps and / or skimmers and other devices used to enhance or control the conditions of the water.

Amount for aquariums
Aquarium sinks can be classified into three categories, Berlin tanks, filters, wet dry and a special type of system known as a refuge. These systems can vary widely in design, shape and mechanics, which prevent us from being able to provide generic instructions for configuration. However, most often a large box like acrylic or glass tank which was divided into two sections in the center. A section is where the aquarium water is delivered. The other part is used to allow a water pump to the back of the aquarium.

Berlin housing
The word "swamp" usually refers to the section containing the pump or vacuum pump. But in the case of a system of Berlin, which is a completely open tank, the entire tank is sometimes called "swamp". All these systems have several things in common. Because these filters are open systems, they can be supplied with water taken from the surface of the aquarium. If they were fed from below the surface, a filter below to overflow and flood, when the pump was turned off. Therefore, they all require the use of a pre-filter overflow in some way, either integrated into the reservoir or drawing that hangs on the back of the aquarium.

What should I use?
The big question is always asked, which service to use? In general, if the aquarium is live rock aquarium or sump, then the Wet-Dry filter is not necessary, because it really is just a temporary storage for debris (debris from the tank), and not really desired. The surface of the organic live rock is great and good bacteria to form and follow, and offers the best possible growth of a biological system. Containers for live rock biological media are generally unharmed loads of big fish, because the biological system is so strong.

If you build an aquarium fish only system of live rock, it is not desired, and then the wet-dry filter system or well is very necessary for further growth organically stable aquarium environment the media.

What about refugium?
Sump refugium is an area divided was added to our growing marine plants that absorb the nitrates in the water. These act as a nitrate fertilizer for the plants, and maintain the level of nitrates 0 aquarium or very close to it. Refugium can be one of the aquarium cover is added, or it may be the main sump system with a common area dedicated to the main pump, self-illuminated seaweed, and the area dedicated to the skimmer.

For more information:
Aquarium Illusions Inc.
Phone:  780 483-7027
Fax:    780 483-7081
Toll Free:   1-800-559-6546 (In Canada)